How big do you hit? (or plan on hitting
this season)
And be real about your answer.
Remember: even too much of a good thing
can sometimes be bad.
WHICH SHOCK
IS BEST FOR YOU?
Well, that can only be determined
after a lengthy conversation about you, your bike, your bank
account and, of course, your riding habits. Give us a call or
stop in for more info on what might be the right shock for you.
Until then, here's a run down on almost everything you
ever wanted to know about shocks in general:
SHOCK SAG:
The amount the shock will move when
the rider normally sits on the bike (usually 1/8-1/4")
DAMPING:
A variable which controls how fast the shock can move during
rebound and/or compression. Many shocks do not have the ability
to change damping but rather use inherent qualities of absorption
materials.
PRELOAD:
The starting point that the
spring is at. Almost all shocks have an ability to change this
force through adjuster knobs.
SPRING:
The medium used to control the shock
when the shock becomes active.
SPRING RATE:
The amount of force needed to compress
a spring one inch.
CROWN:
Piece that connects upper legs to
steerer tube.
SPRING
MATERIALS: Spring materials
can consist of steel springs, elastomers, air, and a combination
of any of these three.* Steel Spring offer the advantage of
a very responsive shock, which ultimately helps keep the wheel
on the ground. The downside is that they are very heavy.* Elastomer
makes the shock a little slower in the rebound and compression
stage, but is a lot lighter than a steel spring. It is, however
very much effected by the air temperature and has less "feel".*
Finally, air. Air is in between steel and elastomers in its
responsiveness. However with air, the natural compression qualities
it offers makes it ideal for a shock. Air is also the lightest
medium for a shock to use.
SETTING SAG:
(sag is a requirement used
in the rear shock not front)A shock for the rear should have
1/8" to 1/4" of an inch of travel. Some shocks offer
an O-ring placed on the inner body or shaft, this makes setup
a breeze. Otherwise it is necessary to measure the length of
the shock from eyebolt to eye bolt and subtract the difference
when you sit on it.* With an air shock, it is a simple matter
of using more or less air to achieve results. * With the spring
system, turning the spring's cullet will make this happen. If
the spring is turned more than four whole turns, then it is
a good idea to get a heavier or lighter spring. Some rear shocks
offer the benefit of both systems and you can then fine tune
the other characteristics of the shock as well as sag through
this manner.
DAMPING:
Dampening simply means a shock is
being slowed in it's upward or downward travel by a force other
than the main spring system. Dampening a shock's movement can
really change a bicycle's behavior.Dampeners for the most part
use an oil sent through a tiny valve deep inside the shock to
control how fast the shock is allowed to move. In rebound dampening,
the return movement of the shock is affected. In the compression
stage, the downward stroke of the shock is affected. Many shocks
use a inert gas like Nitrogen to compress the oil or send the
shock back up so it is NOT A GOOD IDEA to open the shock up
yourself. Shocks use dampening to change how a bike response
over a given terrain. Many single pivot designs like the Gary
Fisher Level Betty and F series really benefit from dampening-
especially compression. There are high-end shocks that allow
the user infinite adjustability for the compression, including
locking out the shocks downward movement- in effect turning
a full suspension into a hard tail.
SERVICE /UPGRADES:
Servicing your shock is critical
to keeping the performance and inner-workings of the shock up
to par. Most people don't realize that a shock on a bike is
not like that of a car- you must service the damn thing a
lot! A shock should be looked at before every ride. An air
shock should be closely checked and not ridden if it has lost
air. Shocks are, in some cases, very complicated, so do not
do an in-depth breakdown unless you like doing a lot of head
scratching and "oh shits". We like to check the wiper
seals and get the crap off them in addition to lubing the shock
with a non-Teflon based lubricant. I said non-Teflon based because
the internal of some shocks use a Teflon coated or based whatever,
that can swell and wear out quickly when more Teflon is introduced
to the mix. Try it on a frying pan and see what happens (just
not mom's good one). I'd rather use a plain oil or grease and
be safe. Some shock companies say every eight hours a breakdown
of xxx parts is required. Checking bolts to the specified torque
is always good as is popping off the wipers and cleaning in
and around them. Cycle Dynamics rebuilds more shocks from lack
of service than from heavy riding. If you read one of your shocks
manuals, it's a good bet that the company has covered its ass
and the shock has no decent warranty. So, we change oil and
put new seals in and do all the other crap ourselves because
it's a lot quicker and cheaper then sending the shock back to
the manufacturer for servicing. Companies use gasses like Nitrogen
sometimes because it is not affected by temperature. We use
air unless the person races because the forces encountered in
most riding do not need gas but do just fine with O2. Unless,
when you bought your bike, you opted for the best of everything,
your shock can always be upgraded. And chances are, that even
if you did buy the best you could get then, there is something
much cooler and well suited to you on the market now. In upgrading
your existing shock, you can get dampeners, new progressive
rate steel springs or air kits to change elastomers to air.
For the rear, I'd suggest you drop $200-$300 and get a really
nice shock that will not only change your outlook on riding,
but quite literally "save your ass".
Still need more info? Give us a call
anytime, 203-226-3790, or send us an e-mail. We'd love to hear
from you.
